Upper Lip lines- how to effectively tackle them

These pesky upper lip lines seem to be an ever increasing problem that I face on a daily basis and get asked about by every patient.

But I want to de-myth what they are, how they occur and what treatment options, you, as a patient have.

Upper lip lines appear as we age and aren’t actually always as result of smoking as you might think. They appear due to a number of reasons, repetitive mouth movements such as lip pursing , pen chewing, pouting as well as a decline in collagen. This is worsened due to levels of bony changes whereby the skeleton is regressing and changing as well as lip volume decreasing, therefore the body of lip is no longer holding the skin taut so it begins to show as lines in the upper lip area.

Also known as bar codes/ smokers lines, lets see what causes them and explore the best skin treatments and skincare practices to improve their appearance.

What are bar codes/smokers lines?

They are also commonly referred to as lipstick lines, perioral lines and they manifest as thin vertical wrinkles that appear above the upper lip and occasionally around the lower lip.
These lines can significantly impact the smoothness and youthful appearance of the mouth, making lipstick application more challenging as the product tends to ‘bleed’ into these fine lines.

What are the causes?

Decreases in collagen and elastin lead to reduced elasticity and quite noticeable in the upper lip area, a region frequently stretched when speaking or smiling. Over time, this reduced elasticity prevents the skin heading back to its original state, which in turn causes it to fold into fine wrinkles.

Certain lifestyle choices such as smoking would also increase the depth of the wrinkles as smoking is a contributing factor to the aging process. The repetitive pursing of the lips around a cigarette or holder puts extra stress on the skin of the lips, Whistling and using a straw can also contribute.

Best treatments?

There are a variety of options to explore.

Muscle relaxing injections
I have found in certain cases , microdoses of a wrinkle relaxing injection around the mouth area seems to soften these lines. Results take over a week and tend to last a couple of months but a perfect intro to treating this area

Dermal Fillers
By precisely injecting small microdrops of filler along the lines and lip border without increasing the volume of the lips. In certain cases, a small lip flip is also achieved which my patients quite like as the majority of them have a thinner upper lip.
Increasing lip volume can also help reduce the appearance of these fine lines as well as treating the super thin vermillion border which allows structure to this lip liner area.

Skin Boosters
These hydrate from within and encourage the skin to regenerate from within and produce some of its own collagen which will give it firmness and elastin which gives it springiness!
It can even tighten the skin a bit which is great news for reducing the appearance of these lines.

Polynucleotides
These are amazing for repair of DNA damage ( aging is one of them) and their function is to carry information that tells our cells how to work and grow.
When injected, they work to repair DNA damage and in turn increases hydration, elasticity and collagen. Generally a course of 3-4 sessions are needed 2-3 weeks apart and final results can take 3-4 months to be seen.

Energy Based Devices
Treatments such as Endymed Intensif ( Medical Microneedling with RF) have a direct effect on the skin. The heat that is generated in the skin makes the collagen contract and then in time, the treated area produces more collagen which strengthens the skin and makes these pesky lines less apparent.

Microneedling with Exosomes
These micro channels that are created by the fine needles, microwound the skin which can kick start the collagen making process. By applying exosomes post treatment, they allow super fast healing.

AgeJet
This nitrogen plasma device also causes wound healing that stimulates collagen making . There is downtime associated with this treatment and a couple of sessions required but it is a ‘clean ‘ treatment with nothing injected into the skin.

What about skincare?

Retinoids
These are like rocket fuel for antiaging so regular use accelerates cell turnover, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and improving skin texture.

Sunscreen
This goes without saying and something that should be done daily which protects the skin from further UV damage, slowing the aging process.

Glycolic Acid
Use of this as a cleanser or serum can help deliver other ingredients deeper into the skin.

Vitamin C
Incorporating antioxidant rich skincare products such as Vitamin C can help combat free radical damage and support skin health.